Old Maui: Sugar, Rain and Roads
There is an older Maui hiding just beyond the beaches. Leave Pāʻia behind and head uphill toward Haʻikū and Makawao. The road winds through a landscape of enormous trees, green valleys and old agricultural fields. Houses appear behind walls and gardens, some elegant, some weathered, many seemingly ordinary. But this is old plantation country, and beneath the tropical beauty is a story that changed Maui forever. Sugar arrived here in the middle of the nineteenth century. By the 1860s, plantations were being established around Haʻikū, and in 1870 Samuel Thomas Alexander and Henry Perrine Baldwin began developing what would become Pāʻia Plantation and, eventually, Alexander & Baldwin. The problem was water. The slopes of Haleakalā received abundant rain, while the agricultural land farther down toward Pāʻia was considerably drier. The solution was audacious: build an irrigation system that would carry water from the wet mountains down to the sugar fields. Miles of ditches transformed the landscape. With water came sugar, and with sugar came a town. Pāʻia grew around its mill, which began operating in 1880. What developed was not simply a plantation but an entire community. Stores, schools, churches, theaters, medical facilities and plantation camps appeared around the mill. Workers arrived from Japan, the Philippines, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Korea and elsewhere. Each community brought its own traditions, food, religion and architecture. Much of the character of modern Maui can be traced to these plantation years. The wealthier side of that world survives, too. Above Pāʻia and toward Haʻikū are the old residences of plantation managers and owners, surrounded by the kind of vegetation that makes everything look as though it has been there forever. Haʻikū House, associated with Henry Baldwin, dates to the 1880s. An older cottage on the









