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The Ultimate Field Picnic

I was sent a copy of this article on the ultimate picnic party wagon, which is a proper English wooden trailer converted for tailgating for polo matches.   Polo Magazine- Party Wagon Article. I then discovered Christy's auction of Patricia Kluge's estate in Virginia, and found that after the Kluge divorce, John Kluge remarried and built another house nearby.  This incredible picnic hamper is the piece de resistance  of the auction.  click article from the New York Times which appeared in December 2005. Apparently in the 1980's by the Kluges commissioned the London firm of Asprey, jewellers and silversmith to the British Royal Family, to fashion this picnic hamper containing a full service for sixteen. The wicker trailer holds some 15 wicker cases, each fitted with brass handles and leather straps, with battery-powered hot and cold boxes and a water pump, cases for Bernardaud Limoges china, Baccarat crystal, Asprey silver cutlery, a staghorn bar service, two folding mahogany tables and 16 chairs, complete with the "K" monogram.  The set was estimated at $20,000 to $30,000 and sold for some $144,000. Although  wicker carryalls have been used since the 1700s, the picnic basket was born in 1901, when British luxury-goods retailers like Asprey started stocking hampers filled with tableware for motorists to enjoy on country drives.  See more at http://driven.urbandaddy.com/2011/08/17/meals-on-wheels/ and http://www.finesse-fine-art.com/Picnic/PicnicArticle.htm.

By |September 13th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Fishing, Foxhunting, Picnic, polo, Uncategorized, Wingshooting|Comments Off on The Ultimate Field Picnic

Food is Like a Beautiful Woman

Food is like a beautiful woman: It is sometimes more dramatic and more appealing simply and honestly presented. You can embellish a dish to catch the eye, but it doesn't mean that the taste will be truly satisfying. I love bistros which may have started out as places to grab a quick meal but they suggest to me an informal, comfortable restaurant where the food is flavorful and straightforward. The cooking is familiar, like the meals you might enjoy at home, sometimes with simple recipes, but often personalized by the chef and the change of seasons.  In France, we can find something for everyone at bistros. In America, steakhouses such as Morton’s, Del Friscos, Elway’s, and others often cater to replicate the best bistros. But the best food in France is still cooked at home and we have collected recipes that we like to eat (and cook). I am often asked about my style of cooking and how I selected these recipes. It's simple--they are the best recipes I have found.  If you have a better one, please post it to me.  I'll try it before I post it, if it is better, I will take down the one I have and use yours.  Usually the recipes start out on things learned in the kitchen, but also from our experiences eating all over the world. Ultimately, they cater to my personal tastes. I think it is more fun to cook what I like to eat. This is a collection of my favorites. My daughter often appreciates the simplest of recipes, as many of them do not take a lot of trouble to clean up after, which is her task after mine as the chef. But, whenever possible, we try to simplify, if it does not sacrifice taste.

By |August 3rd, 2011|Categories: Cuisine|Comments Off on Food is Like a Beautiful Woman

Spring Lamb

Now is the time of year for spring lamb.  Nick de Toldi, our friend in France, recently discussed with us one of the dishes cookable with the terrine de Soufflenheim, but there this "best seller" of the bourgeois dinner parties named "Le gigot de 7 heures."  It is an old recipe that lived a sort of revival in the late 1980's.  In Nick's opinion it was re-launched by a clever guy who purchased the original Auberge Ravoux in Auvers sur Oise (where Van Gogh died) and who wanted to serve only "vintage" cuisine. The guy was Dutch and very cleverly explored some old cook books and was serving a shortlist of very original and talented good things at very fair price. The mistake to avoid for this dish is to use a too expensive lamb. In France for a leg of lamb you have 3 levels of price: 1/ Prime French young lamb, for which the leg costs around 60 euros. 2./ Imported from Ireland or Scotland probably at 30 euros for the same sized leg. 3/ Imported frozen from Australia or New Zealand dropping at 12 euros for the same size leg. The most expensive is only for light cooking serving the meat "rosé".  The UK ones can go either long or shot cooking and the NZ ones are very good for all sorts of heavily cooked or spiced tajines, couscous, curry, Daubes d'Avignon, gigot de 7 heures,  etc... (and even for the French Asado, usually cooked somewhere along the sporting road). As for lamb stateside, try to find a small local producer.  We have one here, selling ones which are every bit as good as the French ones.  As for imported ones, Costco provides a nice de-boned leg of lamb which is perfect for the French Asado or gigot de 7 heures.

By |June 6th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine|Comments Off on Spring Lamb

Pálinka

 The word brandy is derived from the Dutch word brandewijn, ("burnt wine"), which is what the 16th century Dutch described wine that had been burnt or boiled in order to distill it. Brandy can be traced back to the expanding Moslem Mediterranean in the 7th century where Arab alchemists distilled grapes and other fruits in order to make medicinal spirits. There are three basic methods of making brandy:  (1) brandy distilled from fermented grape juice or crushed, but not pressed, grape pulp and skin, such as Cognac, Armagnac, Brady de Jerez, and then aged in wooden casks which colors it, mellows the palate, and adds additional aromas and flavors (Scotch and whiskey are more or less the same process but with mash made from the same ingredients as beer); (2) pomace brandy (Italian Grappa and French Marc are the best-known examples) which is made from the pressed grape pulp, skins, and stems that remain after the grapes are crushed and pressed to extract most of the juice for wine, and are usually minimally aged and seldom see wood, making for a harsher flavor; and (3) fruit brandy which is the default term for all brandies made from fermenting fruit other than grapes, but these fruits tend to lack enough sugar for sufficient alcohol for proper distillation, and thus are macerated in high-proof spirit to extract their flavor and aroma. The extract is then distilled at a low proof. Calvados, the Apple Brandy from the Normandy region of Northwestern France, is an example. Soon after WWII, the Department of Viticulture and Oenology at the University of California at Davis began to develop a prototype "California-style" brandy, which focused on a clean palate and was lighter in style

By |May 29th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine|Comments Off on Pálinka

Chef’s Knives

CHEF KNIFE RECOMMENDATIONS:   My favorite chef's knife is a Togiharu Molybdenum Gyutou 9.4" (24cm) - Right handed (if you are right-handed, otherwise get the left handed one) : $66.00 when I bought it in 2009, but now a whopping $179 in 2017.  I guess it is has been discovered by more aficionados than just me. Prior to this, I had been using mostly Victorianox or Wusthof, both of which are good, but not of this caliber.  Check http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wusthof for the explanation of the various Wusthof lines.  Though I own some expensive Wusthof knives, I still prefer the Classic series because I like their heft, but many chefs like the Cordon Blue series. As for German knives, you should seriously consider the Messermeister, which cost around $120 and you hardly ever see them discounted.  These are popular with chefs, but are relatively unknown to the home chef.  In German knives the two I'd pick from are Wusthof Classic and Messermeister Meridian Elite Knife (ex. 9" chef's).  The latter has a different edge (smaller edge angle) than the usual German knives. In Japanese knives, MAC Mighty (MTH-80), Tojiro DP Gyutou, Togiharu G-1 Molybdenum Gyutou, or the cheaper Togiharu Molybdenum Gyutou, and the Bu-Rei-Zen Gyuto 9 1/2 in leap to mind, as favorites. My friend is something of a knife aficionado and he is salivating about the last one.  Check this out: http://epicedge.com/shopexd.asp?id=85486 The thing to keep in mind about Japanese knives is that the good ones are made of much harder steel and hold their edges longer than German knives--as long as you use them what they were designed to do.  If  you're careless with them, you may chip their edges easier.  Many of  the are only sharpened on one side, resulting in a more acute edge.   They have left and right handed knives.  The Japanese chef knives follow

By |May 29th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Uncategorized|Comments Off on Chef’s Knives

Terrines

For pâté, first you will have to decide which of the three shapes your preparation will take:  (1) La Terrine is the type cooked in a special earthenware oval-shaped pot, (2) Le Pâté is the same recipe, but cooked in a pie crust (and if it adopts a round shape, it will be named a tourte, if it keeps the classic rectangular shape, it is more often named pâté en croûte), or (3) a Preserve, if it is cooked into the small parfait jars with rubber gaskets, which can be sterilized and preserved for future use. As for terrines, our favorites are the small oval made of ceramic with a mallard on top (which holds about 2 cups of pâté) and was given to us in France as a wedding present, the smaller white ceramic one above (which holds about 4 cups of pâté, just right for 1 duck or pheasant together with 1 lb. pork jowl and 1 lb. livers), the long rectangular terrine below which is by Le Cruesot and is enamel-covered cast-iron (holding 6 cups of pâté), and' finally, the ancient spring form which actually is meant for a pâté en croûte. The simple version of our favorite pâté recipe page is found here.  Further detailed step by step directions and photos for making Pâtés & Terrines can be found here from our friend, Nick de Toldi.

By |May 25th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Fur and Feather|Comments Off on Terrines

Armagnac and Cognac

Armagnac is produced in the Gascony region of France, further south towards the Spanish border, than its more famous and much more expensive cousin, cognac.  Both Cognac and Armagnac are certified regions for making these brandies. Armagnac is traditionally distilled once, which results initially in a less polished eau de vie than Cognac, where double distillation usually takes place. However, long aging in oak barrels softens the taste and causes the development of more complex flavours and a brown colour. Aging in the barrel results in some alcohol escaping, the part known as part des anges ("the angels' share). Armagnac is sold under classifications, "VS" is a mix of Armagnac grown brandies with at least two years of aging in wood, "VSOP" is at least five years, and "XO" is at least six.  Hors d'âge means the youngest component in the blend is at least ten years old. Older and better Armagnacs are often sold as vintages, with the single year of vintage demarked on the bottle. Brandies keep for years, even after opened, so treat  yourself to some Armagnac.  An inexpensive one we like is Marquis de Sauval Armagnac, around $30 a bottle at the time of writing. Because of the single distillation versus the double of Cognac (some 150 miles to the north), some French refer to the "taste of the earth" that they experience with Armagnac, while others simply call it "dancing fire followed by velvet flame."  Vintage is not as important as the blending.  Cost (and quality) is usually dependant upon origin (or terroir), the grapes, the distillation process, the length of time spent in oak casks, and the brilliance of the blending process.   If you find a good one, which is easy to do in the Gascony countryside (as this is

By |May 22nd, 2011|Categories: Cuisine|Comments Off on Armagnac and Cognac

Samoon and Tandoori Bread

A few times a month, I frequent Diyar International Market in Denver, Colorado to get some steaming breads from its Middle-eastern shaped ovens.  These samoon are usually scooped up as fast as they come out, five loaves cost less than $2. There samoons are pizza-shaped dough which is slapped onto the oven wall.   They are also baking tandoori breads which are produced from circular dough and baked in the clay oven.  The proprietors are from northern Persia. Their butcher section is stocked with fresh halal meat, butchered weekly from local goat, chicken, lamb and beef carcasses.  It is the freshest and best looking meat selection of any Middle-Eastern market in Denver.  Diyar International Market, 2159 S. Parker Road; 303-337-6527 Another worth a visit is Haji Baba Bakery, 5708 E. Colfax Ave. for pita bread baked here but it is sold at other Middle Eastern grocery stores throughout Denver, as well as Wild Oats Market. We also like two of the other International Markets along Parker road and Iliff and Evans for hard goods.  Pick up some Mediterranean roasted almonds while you are there.

By |May 18th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine|Comments Off on Samoon and Tandoori Bread

From Ranch Hands to Royalty

For over 20 years, Meg Anderson and John Lake catered all manner of shindigs at her Cherokee Ranch and Castle, which is now an open-space foundation,  for then-owner Mildred Montague Genevieve “Tweet” Kimball.  They recently published a book, which contains not only recipes, but reminiscences of the horse people, the cattle woman herself, and the charmed life she lived at the Colorado landmark. I knew Tweet fairly well, which is as much as anyone can probably say, as she was a character unto herself.  I particularly enjoyed attending political dinners and being invited to sit next to her, as it was better than sitting at the Governor's table, as literally everyone who was anyone, and then some, would stop by her table to say hello. John Lake doubled as Tweet's butler and upon making the faux paux at one of our closing hunts of calling one of her traditional Bow Tie servings at the castle a "hors d'oeuvres," he pleasantly went on to tell me, "Actually, this would be called a canapés.  Most of us use the words hors d'oeuvres and canapés interchangeably.  Tweet was very clear on the different meanings of these items.  For sit-down dinners and buffet style, she served canapés.  These were bite-sized items passed before dinner on silver trays, usually on crackers or toast points.  Hors d'oeuvres are dips or items that require a toothpick.  Appetizers would be served as a first course at a sit down dinner."

By |May 15th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Foxhunting|Comments Off on From Ranch Hands to Royalty