Hummus

After 20 years, I have finally perfected restaurant quality hummus, thanks in party to Maureen Abood’s book, Rose Water & Orange Blossoms, which is an awesome book on middle eastern cooking, she likes the addition of a little water assists in a creamy texture.  But, she explained that the real secret to good hummus is not whether you start with canned or dried chickpeas and it’s not the brand of tahini. The secret to good hummus is…yogurt.  Laban, or labne, to be precise—thin or thickened (I like using thickened or substitute kefir). A healthy 1/4 cup scoop, and then maybe a little more, will give your hummus the right body so that when you swirl it onto a plate, you’ve got a velvety whip of a hummus. It will taste that much better if you’ve made the labne or kefir yourself, but that is unnecessary.

Hummus bi Tahini

Here are my guidelines for making the best hummus and getting the most out of it:

• Start with canned chickpeas. As with most home cooking, the quality of your finished product starts with the quality of the ingredients. You might think that means I’m going to tell you to cook your own chickpeas from dried, but that isn’t worth the effort. Depending on their age, dried chickpeas can be hard to cook evenly. They can overcook, absorbing too much water and yielding an overly loose hummus. And if some chickpeas in your batch don’t cook enough, you might be left with a gritty final product.

In this case, the easy way is also the better way: Buy canned chickpeas. But not all canned chickpeas are equal. For perfectly seasoned and tender chickpeas that make the best hummus, go with Goya-brand. They’re cheap and ubiquitous, and they really do taste the best. Whatever brand you buy, skip the salt-free versions. They are also taste free and will yield a bland, spiritually inert hummus nobody wants to eat.

• Choose good tahini. It can range from delicious to wholly unpalatable. I prefer either Soom or SoCo brands, but any tahini that smells fresh and tastes rich and clean with just the slightest edge of pleasant bitterness will do the trick. A good rule: Don’t put tahini you wouldn’t enjoy spooning directly into your mouth into your hummus.

• Think about toppings. Once you have your own homemade hummus waiting for you, you can turn your attention to topping it with hearty, simply prepared ingredients. It doesn’t have to be complicated. One of the best and easiest ways is to top your hummusgenerously with whole canned chickpeas, a swirl of olive oil, and a sprinkle of paprika or za’atar. A simple chopped salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion and parsley is another appealing option, especially in summer when those things are all over the farmers market or even in your garden. Leftover smoked or braised meats work well as toppings, too.

In the absence of hummus-friendly leftovers, it’s worth the time to spend a few minutes cooking up a topping. I like to combine something cooked, dense and earthy, such as meat or mushrooms, with something lighter, maybe a juicy vegetable such as tomatoes or cucumbers. And, of course, spices, herbs and a bright pop of acidity from pickles, hot sauce or vinegar. A final flourish that adds crunch — nuts, seeds or a raw veggie such as radish — can take it over the top.

• Don’t be afraid to break the mold. I know hummus purists will be scandalized, but I sometimes stray from the classic chickpea version. Vibrant pink beet hummus is a scene-stealer in a party situation. As summer moves into fall, I like to sub roasted sweet potatoes, butternut squash or pureed pumpkin for the beets. I know, I know: The word “hummus” means chickpeas. But guess what? The hummus police have not come to handcuff me yet.

• Consider the dippers. Before you run to your kitchen to whip up your own homemade hummus in 10 minutes flat, ask yourself: What will you eat it with? A well-topped hummus is a dish I sometimes eat with a spoon, but usually I’m scooping it up with wedges of wholewheat pita or other flatbread. Spreading it thick, with or without toppings, on a toasted or grilled slice of bread makes for a filling and Instagrammable open-face sandwich. In my most health-conscious moments, I use sturdy triangles of green or purple cabbage as dippers. I can only say that this tastes a lot better than it sounds. Give it a try.

• Use every bit. And finally, when you have just a few spoonfuls of hummus left at the bottom of your container, I encourage you to whisk the remnants into a homemade or bottled vinaigrette to toss with salad. Just a little hummus thickens the dressing, making it lush without dairy, and proves that a big batch of homemade hummus is good to the last drop.

Speedy Homemade Hummus

16 servings (makes about 4 cups)

A food processor does the work here, and the creamy dip is done in about 5 minutes. The recipe is simple enough to commit to memory.

Making a well-whipped tahini sauce in the food processor before you add the chickpeas makes for a lighter-textured hummus. Even when you are in a hurry, let the hummus puree for the full 3 minutes for best results.

I like to use Goya brand canned chickpeas (not low-sodium) for this recipe; according to the magazine Today’s Dietitian, rinsing and draining them reduces the amount of sodium by 41 percent.

Another tip: Tahini can be messy to measure. Let it come to room temperature first, and pre-coat the inside of your measuring cup with a drop of oil or a little cooking oil spray.

It is best served at room temperature; if you’re in a hurry, microwave chilled hummus in 10-second intervals, stirring each time.

MAKE AHEAD: The hummus can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

From food writer Joy Manning.

Ingredients 1 clove garlic ¾ cup water ¾ cup tahini ¼ cup lemon juice (from 1 lemon) 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground cumin Two 15.5-ounce cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained

Directions

Pulse the garlic in a food processor until it is minced.

Add the water, tahini, lemon juice, salt and cumin and puree for about 1 minute, until the mixture becomes light-textured and smooth. (It should be pourable, not pasty.) Add the drained/rinsed chickpeas; puree for about 3 minutes, until very smooth.

Serve or store in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.

Nutrition (based on 1/4-cup servings) | Servings Per Container: 16; Calories: 140; Total Fat: 7 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 270 mg; Total Carbohydrates: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 4 g; Sugars: 2 g; Protein: 6 g.

No Food Processor Hummus

8 servings (makes a scant 2 cups)

Here’s the low-tech, more-textured version of Joy Manning’s Quickie Homemade Hummus, which calls for crushing the chickpeas in a large (gallon-size) zip-top bag.

To double the recipe, she recommends doing a second batch in the same bag.

Manning likes to use Goya brand canned chickpeas (not low-sodium) for this recipe; according to the magazine Today’s Dietitian, rinsing and draining them reduces the amount of sodium by 41 percent.

Another tip from the author: Tahini can be messy to measure. Let it come to room temperature first, and pre-coat the inside of your measuring cup with a drop of oil or a little cooking oil spray.

MAKE AHEAD: The hummus can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

From food writer Joy Manning.

Ingredients One 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained (not low-sodium) 6 tablespoons tahini 6 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1/2 lemon) 1 small clove garlic, run through a garlic press ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground cumin

Directions

Place the drained/rinsed chickpeas in a gallon-size zip-top bag and seal, arranging them in a single layer. Use a rolling pin to press down on the chickpeas to mash them. Roll the rolling pin over the bag to puree the chickpeas as much as you can.

Whisk together the tahini, water, lemon juice, garlic, salt and cumin in a large liquid measuring cup or mixing bowl, until smooth.

Turn the chickpea bag inside out over the cup or bowl, using a spatula or table knife to scrape out its contents. Stir until smooth.

Serve, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Nutrition | Per serving: 140 calories, 6 g protein, 16 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 270 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar

Beet Hummus

14 servings (makes 3 1/2 cups)

This vibrant pink hummus variation balances sweet and earthy flavors. Its eye-catching color perks up a snack spread for friends or an otherwise boring packed lunch.

MAKE AHEAD: This tastes even better after a day’s refrigeration, and it can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

From food writer Joy Manning.

Ingredients 1 ½ pounds beets, scrubbed well 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon water ¼ cup tahini 4 cloves garlic 1 ½ teaspoons salt ¼ cup lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a sheet of aluminum foil on a baking sheet, then arrange the beets on it. Drizzle them with a tablespoon of the oil and the water. Seal them tightly in the foil; roast (middle rack) for about 1 hour, until completely tender. Let cool, peel and chop.

Combine the chopped beets, tahini, garlic, salt, lemon juice and the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a food processor; puree until smooth.

Serve at room temperature, or chilled.

Nutrition | Per serving: 120 calories, 3 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Hummus With Spiced Lamb, Scallions and Dill

2 to 4 servings

Lamb’s robust flavor stands up well to a base of hummus and a flurry of fresh dill, but beef is great in this recipe, too. The mixture also makes for a good filling for a pita sandwich – with or without hummus.

Serve with whole-wheat pita wedges.

MAKE AHEAD: The hummus can be made up to 1 week in advance.

From food writer Joy Manning.

Ingredients 4 ounces ground lamb (may substitute lean ground beef) 2 scallions (white and green parts), minced ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon salt, or more as needed ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup diced cucumber (peeled or unpeeled) 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar About 2 cups Speedy Homemade Hummus or No Food Processor Hummus (see related recipes) 1 tablespoon slivered almonds, toasted (see NOTE) 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Directions

Combine the ground lamb, scallions, cinnamon, coriander, salt and pepper in a medium skillet set over medium-high heat. Cook for about 5 minutes, breaking up the meat, until no trace of pink is left. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the cucumber and white wine vinegar. Taste, and add more salt, as needed.

Spread the hummus on a platter, then top with the spiced meat mixture. Scatter the almonds, dill and red pepper flakes over the top and serve.

NOTE: Toast the nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat for several minutes until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking the pan to avoid scorching. Cool completely before using.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 4, using Speedy Homemade Hummus): 380 calories, 17 g protein, 32 g carbohydrates, 22 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 20 mg cholesterol, 700 mg sodium, 9 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar

Hummus With Seared Shiitakes, Tomato and Basil

2 to 4 servings

Mushrooms and tomatoes are both veggies that complement a rich scoop of hummus.

No shiitakes? No worries. You can use the caps of plain old button mushrooms or creminis instead.

Serve with whole-wheat pita wedges or foccacia.

MAKE AHEAD: The hummus can be refrigerated up to 1 week in advance.

From food writer Joy Manning.

Ingredients 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 16 shiitake mushroom caps, cleaned and cut into quarters (may substitute other mushroom caps) ¼ teaspoon salt, or more as needed ½ cup quartered cherry or grape tomatoes 1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar About 2 cups Speedy Homemade Hummus or No Food Processor Hummus (see related recipes) 1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted, for garnish (see NOTE) 2 tablespoons torn fresh basil leaves, for garnish

Directions

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the mushrooms and salt; cook for about 3 minutes, stirring until the mushrooms are tender and browned in spots. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the tomatoes and vinegar. Taste, and add more salt, as needed.

Spread the hummus on a platter, then top with the mushroom mixture. Scatter the pine nuts and basil leaves over the top and serve.

NOTE: Toast the pine nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat for several minutes until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking the pan to avoid scorching. Cool completely before using.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 4, using Speedy Homemade Hummus): 350 calories, 14 g protein, 37 g carbohydrates, 19 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 690 mg sodium, 10 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

Adapted in part from the Denver Post article by Joy Manning