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Not all Chickens are Alike!

In France and most of Europe, poussin are very popular and have been regularly available since the domesticated wild red jungle fowl. Poussin is the first stage of a chicken’s life (think veal).  Next is the poulet.  Then, mature females or hens are poules, and the mature males are coqs.  Typically, a European goes to market with a specific type of chicken in mind depending upon the recipe.  For instance, cooking an old rooster in wine for a long time, coq au vin.  Poule au pot, hen in the pot, requires a mature female to mature in the broth and vegetables.  Here the coq’s pronounced flavor would be a bit overwhelming.  In America, a capon is a reasonable substitute.  A capon is gelded male fed milk until 6 months.  The flesh is very white and, in France, the capon is traditionally served at Christmas.  For everyday roasting or other dry cooking, get a poulet, or pullet, for a bird that will be juicy and tender.  A poussin is the most tender, as they are only a month old and purely grain fed. In the United States, fryers are birds of either sex up to 3 ½ pounds, then come roasters up to 5 pounds, and capons which range from 6-10 pounds.  Poussin can be ordered in the US from D’Artagnans. I encourage you to buy your chickens whole, rather than in parts (as it is generally far less expensive and you'll be rewarded with all those sauce-building pieces such as the wing tips, back neck and giblets.  It's easy to learn how to spatchcock a chicken, all you need are kitchen shears and a sharp knife. We through any extra meat such as the wing tips and back

By |November 27th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Fur and Feather, Recipes|Comments Off on Not all Chickens are Alike!

Hanging Game Birds – How to Hang a Pheasant – Resting Game

Gaminess is a level of intensity, from the feed and wildness of game being pursued by predators instead of being confined, that can be raised or lowered in cooking.  There is discussion among game aficionados that focus on how long game birds should be hunt or left to relax before being sufficiently tenderized.  Temperature is critical and it is best to hang game where the temperature does not fluctuate such as in a cold room, with a reasonable movement of air, away from flies.  Pigeons, ducks, and snipe do not seem to benefit from hanging.  Being raised in America, I have to confess that I cringed a bit when I initially encountered the way that they hung game birds for aging in France. Hanging pheasants and grouse in the feathers for days (or even a week or two) didn’t seem to comply with our modern standards of food hygiene and with bacterial contamination being nearly a daily feature in our newspapers even from FDA approved facilities. Oh I know that old books go on about sublime flavor “high game.” But the French have it right and the rest of Europe and England nearly always follow this method as well.  While hanging, the natural enzymes begin to act on the fibers of the muscle meat, making them more relaxed and tender. When you think about it, it makes sense.  Try eating a cow (or any big game animal) the following day after it is harvested—it’s nearly inedible, tough and chewy.  The carcass is hard and stiff, if you try to cut the meat at this point in time.  But even a few days of dry-aging it, allows the rigamortis which sets in immediately after killing the

By |November 22nd, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Fur and Feather, Wingshooting|Comments Off on Hanging Game Birds – How to Hang a Pheasant – Resting Game

The Blackberry Farm Cookbook (book review 5/5*****)

Sam Beall, 2009 Clarkson Potter One reviewer said, "Farm-to-table is one of those irritating culinary trends that is hard to really stay irritated by. Fundamentally, it's just so darn right: we should be eating seasonally and locally, we should be supporting sustainable agriculture and the preservation of heirloom vegetables. The most delicious food is the stuff that's been harvested (butchered, cultivated, fished) as close as possible to the kitchen that's cooking it." I find this review troubling.  Why is the idea of farm to table irritating to anyone?  It makes sense.  I believe, it makes sense to everyone, even vegans.  This book is separated into seasons, the seasons of our life--the seasons of our food.  It is about food from Knoxville, Tennessee, a bit dressed up, as the author is the son of the Ruby Tuesday's restaurant founder.  Not exactly what you would call a hunter-gatherer tradition, but one he seems to now claim. Anyway, the recipes are separated into seasons, starting with summer's Blackberry Cobbler and a diatribe on smoking at the Barbie.  But the first one I found interesting was infusing peaches into his BBQ sauce or blackberries.  And I like the southern sweet tea infused with various things from raspberries to blue berries to strawberries, all set to cure in canning jars with the old French lids. First a discussion on smoke, which is "almost a sacrament below the Mason-Dixon Line."  Cherokee fires in a pit banked by river rock topped with large joint meat and buried, to wood-fired clay ovens, brick ovens, fireplaces and smokehouses.  From pig cookers welded by locals to kettle grills, the Kamado ( a clay and ceramic style tandoori cooker), to wood cookers and it goes on. And the explanation of the two kinds of Tennessee fried chicken.    The Kreis's Tennessee Fire Fried Chicken is worth repeating,

By |July 2nd, 2011|Categories: Book Reviews, Fur and Feather, Wingshooting|Comments Off on The Blackberry Farm Cookbook (book review 5/5*****)

Terrines

For pâté, first you will have to decide which of the three shapes your preparation will take:  (1) La Terrine is the type cooked in a special earthenware oval-shaped pot, (2) Le Pâté is the same recipe, but cooked in a pie crust (and if it adopts a round shape, it will be named a tourte, if it keeps the classic rectangular shape, it is more often named pâté en croûte), or (3) a Preserve, if it is cooked into the small parfait jars with rubber gaskets, which can be sterilized and preserved for future use. As for terrines, our favorites are the small oval made of ceramic with a mallard on top (which holds about 2 cups of pâté) and was given to us in France as a wedding present, the smaller white ceramic one above (which holds about 4 cups of pâté, just right for 1 duck or pheasant together with 1 lb. pork jowl and 1 lb. livers), the long rectangular terrine below which is by Le Cruesot and is enamel-covered cast-iron (holding 6 cups of pâté), and' finally, the ancient spring form which actually is meant for a pâté en croûte. The simple version of our favorite pâté recipe page is found here.  Further detailed step by step directions and photos for making Pâtés & Terrines can be found here from our friend, Nick de Toldi.

By |May 25th, 2011|Categories: Cuisine, Fur and Feather|Comments Off on Terrines